Friday, September 7, 2007
the "co-op"
the next chapter
I begin this blog as a travel journal. Now I'm not traveling. I guess you could say I'm not home either though. I'm in State College, PA. I seem to have inspired Russell to make a blog for his upcoming travels. Now I'm inspired again to put some better writing up on this page. I had grandiose expectations for my would-have-been wonderfully written summer in Europe travel epic. Instead I rushed through borrowed or paid for computer time, hoping to keep family and friends up to date, letting them know I was still alive even if I had no idea where I would be on a train to the next day.
I spent a gorgeous few weeks after my travels house-sitting for Kurt and Masha, some of Russell's friends who were in Russia for a month. They own a wonderful little Victorian house outside of town (and there's not that much town to be outside of here), filled with Kurt's artwork and handcrafted wood furniture by another friend. Amish buggies drove by every morning. Red, the cat, woke me up every morning with his teeth and claws starting at my feet and working his way up. Russell and I spent most of our time in the garden, brimming with veggies and flowers, behind the house. Beyond the garden - only a corn field and forested ridge line.
Russell and I moved out of the house-sitting gig into my new place.
Wednesday, July 25, 2007
back
I just arrived back on American soil last night. My last few days in the UK were awesome. My trip to Wales with Pritesh and James on Saturday was fun filled as well as educational. We had rented a car for the full weekend, intending on camping, but the day we were to leave, massive flooding began around various parts of England and Wales. So we opted not to join those getting helicopter lifted out and instead of camping opted to leave a day later and drive there and back in one day instead of two or three. It's about a 4-5 hour drive from Cambridge to the Center for Alternative Technology on the central coast of Wales. The Center was very cool with educational displays on all sorts of sustainable living topics for energy, architecture, water, transportation, waste, etc. We spent over four hours looking around there. I talked the woman at the information desk into showing me the reedbed wastewater system which provided some useful insights for my thesis research - well until I was bitten by a fire ant and had trouble forming more questions through the pain. After the center we drove through part of Snowdonia national park and then along the coast with views of old stone walls separating squares of sheep pastures (the sheep are all color coded with spraypainted dots) on rolling bluffs above the water. Sunday I went punting with Pritesh and another of his friends. Punts are these little boats somewhere between a canoe and a gondola that are all along the canal in Cambridge. No proper visit to Cambridge is complete without punting. Instead of paddling, you must stand on the back of the boat and push with this huge pole on the bottom of the canal. Pritesh's skills improved by the end of our ride after saying he had fallen into the water last time he went. I tried too and managed only to hit a few walls and other boats. The sunset light on the old colleges was amazing.
Monday I wandered around London for a day, making mental notes of all the spots I need to go back and spend more time in such as the Design Museum and walk around Waterloo. Tuesday was a seriously long day of travel. I woke up early to take a 2 1/2 bus from Cambridge to the airport. I met up with Mike and Brian in the check in line. When at the counter, we were offered a voucher deal to take a slightly later flight that still arrived in Philadelphia in time to catch our second flight plus offered us 407 pounds!!! So we took the cash, almost 800 dollars US, had some celebratory drinks hanging out in the London airport and still had another layover in Philly, not getting into State College until around midnight. Mike and Brian had taken a ferry across the channel the night before from Amsterdam to come straight to the airport in London, so we had all been traveling for many continuous hours by the time we were done at what felt like 5 or 6 am. Whew. My luggage managed to miss the flight out of Philly, but was delivered this morning, so not to bad. It is good to be back though. Give me a call soon to catch up!
Nicole
Friday, July 20, 2007
the rain
Nicole
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
Italian beaches to rain in Cambridge
Ta,
Nicole
Monday, July 16, 2007
Rome in a day
On Thursday I took a train to Pisa for just a couple hours on my way to Florence (Firenze). I thought about asking a random stranger to take my picture in the pose looking like I was pushing the tower over, but it just seemed far too cheesy sine there were thousands of others doing the same thing all around me, so I just sat in the lawn around the leaning tower and equally amazing churches next to it watching the crowds. later Thursday I met John at the Firenze train station and we camped at an amazing campsite on a hill overlooking the whole city, arriving just at sunset (I have about a hundred photos of the sunset reflecting on the river with all of its bridges and the light on all of the church domes and tile roofs). We spent Friday exploring the streets and Piazzas of Florence, sampling much pizza and gelato, then took a train to Roma. The campsite in Roma was not quite as well located and we had an adventure of trains and buses and walking along busy roads with no sidewalks to get there, but it worked out fine as budget accommodation anyway. Saturday we walked all over the city to all of the major sights including the Trevi Fountain, the Pantheon (which I was particularly impressed with), and the Colloseum (which we caught at sunset for some great photo taking). The vatican city sights were closed Saturday afternoon through Sunday, so we didn´t really go inside anywhere, but otherwise covered all the major attractions in a day. Sunday we took a trip to Tivoli just outside of Rome to see Villa d'Este which I´ve studied in landscape architecture history courses. Actually my whole trip in Italy has been giving me flashbacks to lectures studying this piazza or that villa, so many of the sights I´ve been going to I will recognize and start remembering design facts about which is neat (my professors would be so proud). Villa d'Este is known for its amazing fountains which were engineering feats in their day and equally impressive now with sprays spewing and trickling out of all kinds of sculptural compositions. My favorite was the row of a hundred animal face fountains. We took a train back to Bologna last night and I will probably have some less ambitious days to rest up for my last week in the UK today and tomorrow. I´ll be back in the US late on the 24th so I´m looking forward to catching up with everyone then!
Ciao!
Nicole
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
Ciao from Italy!
I´m having a great time in Italy, enjoying some beautiful Mediterranean weather, reminding me of home. I spent the rest of the weekend in Bologna. John showed me around some amazing old cathedrals and piazzas and pointed out the university he´s doing his PhD work at - the oldest in Europe. He has five other roomates which speak English to varying degrees and are super friendly, trying to help me plan out my day trips. There are all sorts of free concerts and other events every night here, but so far we end drinking wine on someone´s balcony with John´s friends and roomates instead. I´m trying to learn a bit of Italian which seems far less challenging than the other languages I´ve been encountering, especially with all of its overlap with Spanish. Yesterday I took a day trip to Ferrara, a great town just half an hours train ride away. I toured a huge castle and cathedral there. Then I tried a local cuisine specialty, little pasta pouches shapped like floppy hats filled with pumpkin with a butter and fresh sage sauce, in a cafe overlooking the cathedral piazza. Today I´m headed to Modena (where all the balsamic vinegar is from) for a few hours and then am meeting John to go to a concert tonight back in Ferrara in a small Piazza. Tomorrow I´m heading to Pisa and then Florence where John will meet me after work to camp outside of Florence. Then we are going to Rome for the weekend, also camping at a campground just outside the city to be low budget. Since I hadn´t planned on coming to Italy on this trip, I´m all of the sudden realizing how much there is to see, especially of the villas and piazzas we study in landscape architecture history courses. I don´t think I´ll have much trouble filling my next few days with sights and filling my tummy with more great pizza, pasta, and gelato. I´ll fly to London late on the 17th for my last UK leg of the journey.
Ciao!
Nicole
Saturday, July 7, 2007
Italy
So after Copenhagen I made a brief trip to Kolding to visit a thesis case study, the Kolding bioworks pyramid, which was very cool. Then I spent a couple days in Munich which was nice but rainy and I was a bit burnt out on wandering around touristy areas of cities. So I just arrived in Bologna Italy and met up with my friend John. I will fly to London on the 17th. More details soon, just a quick update before I head off for some Italian food here.
Nicole
Wednesday, July 4, 2007
heading south for some summer
Nicole
Monday, July 2, 2007
Kobenhavn
I arrived into the Koebnhavn train station around 8:30 (there was still light in the sky until around 11:30 at night, so it wasnt even close to dark). I was less impressed walking through the city to the hostel, which just a short walk from the station, than I expected to be. Everything here seems pretty touristy or kind of run down. The hostel is equally less impressive than I thought and while safe enough feeling is probably one of the lesser hostels I've stayed in with little character and little convenience. They require you to put all of your things in a locker room and leave between 11 and 3 every day. I found out from a coulple of nice Swiss guys in the room that it is the cheapest hostel in town at the equavalent of 20 euros per night. This country is not cheap at all.
My opinion of Copenhagen got a little better after my walking tour today. It was very cool and windy making for not so ideal picture taking, but the coast was kind of moody in a neat way and I saw some neat palaces, churches and fountains. There is an opera house across the water in one spot that was in an axis with a huge fountain and a church with an amazing dome. Just as I was about to finish the walking tour and head to the botanical garden, it started pouring rain. I tried to keep going thinking it would let up but it just started raining harder so I found a little jazz cafe to sit and have a glass of wine in and do some writing. After trying to wait out the rain in the cafe, I gave up and walked back to the hostel in the rain. I ended up talking with a girl from Minnesota and a guy from Australia in the room. The three of us went to find this vegetarian buffet that had mediterranean food which was recommended in the guide book for dinner. The food was really great and it was relatively cheap compared to most other options - I think still around 12 dollars though. The food was a refreshing change from cheese sandwiches and pizza and we all stuffed ourselved.
Tomorrow I´ll take a morning train out to an ecovillage near here as part of my thesis research, supposedly 80 minutes away on two trains. I´ll come back and stay in Copenhagen again tomorrow night and then I'm thinking of moving on unless I find the inspiration to stay one more day. It seems like all of the other backpackers I´m meeting are equally unimpressed with the city and moving on quickly, but I wonder if part of it is the rainy weather as well. I´m thinking of trying to find my way to the Folkecenter, a alternative technology research center on the northwest coast, for a tour they have on Thursday.
Hope everyone watches some good fourth of July fireworks for me!
Nicole
Saturday, June 30, 2007
Berlin again
More from Denmark soon . . .
Nicole
Tuesday, June 26, 2007
Exploring Turnov
We've spent the last few days exploring Turnov. There are extensive hiking trails all over the region. Ben and I hiked up from the middle of town to some overlooks in the hills and a castle in just a couple hours. Today our hosts at the organization we're working with for the highway project took us on another day of touring. We climbed up to the Trosky castle ruins, then up to a tower that was used for military radio on the highest point in the region. The weather has been warm but last night a big storm came in and cooled things off. It was quite cold and windy up on the high overlooks. We also stopped at a mine and broke a few rocks to look for precious stones, finding just a few little crystals. Next we stopped by a huge Linden tree that is 800 years old. On the drive back, we pulled off to the side of the road and all of our drivers/hosts ran up to this non-descript window at what looked like someone's house turned snack stand. We found out that this place was known for making a local variety of little cake pastries and they bought us a few boxes as a treat. Speaking of new unhealthy local cuisine, I was excited to try a traditional dish that's actually vegetarian - breaded and fried cauliflower with potatoes on the side. All the dishes tend to be served with great garnish of cucumbers, tomatoes and other veggies, so my latest technique is to collect everyone's garnishes that the meat eaters ignore to get my veggies.
The project is moving along also. The group here seems to want more than anything else to document us agreeing with them that the highway in the northern proposed route would be a horrible idea and the southern route a much better idea. They were pleased when our analysis confirmed this and immediately after our presentation offered to plan a tour of the local beer brewery, telling us it looked like we were working too hard. They are interested in us making a documentary of our experiences and research here to rally some support. We had already been talking about making a website with our work which could be handed over to the locals as a forum about the status of the highway project. Another idea was to make some propoganda t-shirts with logos showing the historical castles getting ground up to pave the highway. We only have four more days here, so considering our busy schedule of brewery and museum tours, it looks like our product for Friday will be a storyboard mock up of work we will continue as part of our seminar class next semester.
I've booked a hostel in Berlin as a stopover on my way to Denmark on the 30th. Then I'll be in Copenhagen until the third or the first.
Ciao for now.
Nicole
Friday, June 22, 2007
Project in Turnov
Yesterday we spent way too much time in the office trying to organize the project and were practically brawling across the table in the afternoon over how to go about our analysis. Yes, the group is becoming more like sibblings with immaturity on he rise and occasional yelling matches. Today we have some smaller groups armed with maps and are exploring pieces of the proposed freeway routes. It's hard to believe we only have a few more days until the end of the organized Czech trip. We will leave Turnov on the 29th. From there, Ceci, Ben, and Jeff are heading back to Prague and then back to PA. Ken and Julie have a honeymoon route through Austria, Switzerland, Spain, etc. planned. Mike and Brian are also exploring Europe for another three weeks. I'll be on my own headed to Denmark first to eco-geek out at a couple more ecovillages and centers for alternative technology.
Hope all is well on that end and feel free to send some emails (nicole.a.stern@gmail.com is the most frequently checked).
- Nicole
Wednesday, June 20, 2007
Decin - Berlin - Turnov (a summary)
Sorry for getting behind in the news mom. I'll have to send a more detailed recap soon, but just to summaraise the past few days . . . we spent some long days working in Decin and the project came off very well. The presentation was a hit and the local people there wanted to put our work up on their website and show more of the people in town our ideas. After we finished up in Decin, we had a four day break to split up and travel around. I ended up going to Berlin. Russell contacted one of his friends, Isabel, who lives there. She invited me to join her for the launch of an english literary magazine for english writers in Berlin. Many of the authors did readings and there was music and comedy - a fun night. I went out to an ecovillage just outside of Berlin on Saturday, then came back to Berlin and spent a couple of days looking around the city more. Yesterday the group merged again in Turnov and took a regional tour today to begin our next project. I'll write more on the intermitten adventures along the way soon but have rushed internet access at the moment. Happy Summer Solstice to everyone tomorrow.
Nicole
Tuesday, June 12, 2007
a few more photos from Prague
Saturday, June 9, 2007
Regional touring
Tomorrow is the start of our major project production mode before the printing deadline on Wednesday and our presentation to the community at the chateau on Thursday. For now I'm off to rest my very sore legs.
PS - Benjamin, I took a great photo of this sculpture of a monk with a monkey on his head for you.
Wednesday, June 6, 2007
Berlin and back
The Jewish memorial was another dramatic site. Gray blocks of concrete that start at only a couple feet tall and then rise up to about 15 feet tall are laid out in a grid of rectangles that you wonder through in straight paths like a maze. The center is strange with the up and down sloping narrow paths, running into other people at sharp corners on perpendicular paths . . . the space seemed less of a typical memorial to those who died but more an abstract reinactment of the confusion and fear of the time. That uncomfortable sensation still hadn't left me as we walked by what used to be Hitler's underground bunkers.
I'm planning to head back to Berlin for our 4 day break between projects to hopefully explore some of the lighter sides of the city I've heard good things about, well and the Jewish museum by the architect Libeskind. I'll also be going to the ZEGG ecovillage outside of Berlin as part of the start of some thesis research.
For now we're just getting into the real guts of our design project in Decin which we have another week and a half to work on before a presentation at the Chateau on the 14th.
I hope the summer is kicking off well over in that part of the world.
- Nicole
Sunday, June 3, 2007
Bohemian Switzerland
Most of the group headed to Berlin a day or two early so there are just a few of us in Decin today. Ken, Julie, and I took a short bus ride to a national park just to the north of Decin which straddles the Czech/German border which half the park in each country. The name of the park means Bohemian Switzerland, perhaps for the rocky, mountainous terrain and lush forests. We hiked down through a gorgeous gorge, complete with a little boat ride to connect two parts of the trail. It was a foggy, misty day so the atmosphere in the gorge was magical and drippy. We had time to hike up to a large stone arch after the gorge, but the high overlook was almost comically nothing but white with the fog.
The vegetarian fare here is quite sparse, mom. Luckily the hostel we're staying in has a kitchenette in our suite of rooms and there are a few large supermarkets in Decin. Most of us have been cooking at least one meal a day now. There is a good little pizza place in town which has a "vegetaria" pizza. Last night I ordered something off the menu which I could read should have been something with vegetables, and tofu. What came out on the plate was a large portion of canned veggies smothered in cheese, no tofu. All the carnivores on the trip seem to be happy with the large variety of meat dishes though. Laundry has been amusing so far as well. We've luckily had free laundry machines at both of the places we've stayed so far. The one machine here seems to take an average of 2 hours for one load, no dryer. Yesterday after checking back to see if the machine was open all morning and afternoon, a few of us horded the key to do some consecutive loads. I was up until past 1am waiting for my 2 hour spin. I must say the clothes get very clean though!
More on the trip to Berlin after tomorrow!
Thursday, May 31, 2007
Chateau
I'm working on posting more photos soon!
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
From Praha to Decin
Just to orient you, there are ten in our group. Ceci is the professor leading the trip with interests in historical landscapes and cultural landscape preservation. Ken and Julie are the newlyweds who had a lovely PA wedding the Sat. before we left. Then there is Jeff, my former Canadian roomate; Drew, Mike, and Brian - all fellow landscape architecture grad students; and Ben and Harsh - both tag alongs from the architecture grad program.
We spent a few days in Prague, or Praha (it always seems strange to me that the same place has different names in different languages. shouldn't places all just be called by what their name is in the local language?). We've been picking up a few Czech words. Dobry den is good morning. Prosim is please and excuse me - good for getting waiter's attention. We're still mystified by how to prounounce the word for thank you which is either daqui, diqui, dakuji, or some similar form. I serendipidously learned that laundry is prochka when following a local student I happened to spot carrying a bag of clothes down the hall in our first dorm who then helped me explain to the grumpy old man at the counter that I wanted the key to the laundry room. Now I can happily go up to any front desk and say "prochka" as I point to my room key.
In Prague, we toured around the main points of interest - the old town square, Charles bridge, and the castle. (I'll attempt to post pictures soon). A few of us splurged on a Carmena Burana concert in the Municipal House (my favorite art nouveau building in prague) theater. Stay tuned for my one minute video recording (using my snazzy new digital camera) of the opening song. Yep, so far this class isn't too bad at all. Besides some sketching in the castle gardens, it's quite a vacation.
The real work is beginning soon though. We met with our guide, Jan (a native who went to grad school in landscape architecture years back in the US and now works as a landscape architect out of Prague) yesterday after arriving by train in Decin. Decin is a medium sized town of 60,000 people about an hour and a half north of Praha. A historical Chateau here is the focus of our project. The Russian Army camped out here using the Chateau as their base. They actually used the basement for sewage and they longer they were here, the more floors filled up as a big outhouse. They also covered all the beautifully painted buildings up with gray paint and generally trashed the place. There is a major restoration effort underway. Our main project though is to create a master plan to connect the Chateau, main squares, river, and parks together which are all the places the local public should be making use of but are all disconnected and hard to get between. Should be an interesting project.
I'm off to spend some more crowns ($1 = 20 kc) on lunch and explore the town.
Best wishes,
Nicole
Friday, May 25, 2007
Hot City
Thursday, May 24, 2007
Prague Arrival
Nicole
Friday, May 18, 2007
Itinerary & projects
Cesta do Czech Itinerary
May 22-July 1, 2007
Part I
Objectives for this part of the course are:
· To identify historic/cultural layers, patterns and processes that define
· Become familiar with planning and design issues in
· Be introduced to heritage issues: cultural and natural resource preservation/conservation
· To identify historic/cultural layers, patterns and processes that define selected city
Product: Visual journal
22/5/07 Group departs US
23/5/07-
24/5/07 Free day in
25/5/07 Old town, City pattern, street studies
26/5/07 Castle, gardens
27/5/07 Garden suburb
28/5/07 Free day
29/5/07-
Part II
Objectives:
· Become familiar with Decin and attendant issues of development /management of park resources
· To become immersed in a particular community/regional planning or design problem
Product: Visual journal, plan/management report that can help guide decision-making (to be completed Fall semester)
3/6/07-
2-week charrette
15/6/07-
Part III
Objectives:
· Become familiar with contemporary planning and design issues in Cesky Raj region
· Be introduced to issues of management related to a significant heritage area and development conflicts
Product: Visual journal, plan/management report (Fall semester completion)
19/6/07-
10-day charrette
30/6/07 Return to
Eye of the Storm
This is my first attempted blog. If this works, you should be able to tune into my upcoming adventures. Here goes . . .
Nicole